Ill verify the cable, its one of the cables that came with the machine, so it could likely be the strands have slowly burned with time and just needs cutting and re-crimping, as you mention. And once you start considering adding in a power supply, you might as well go for a PID. . Glad this writeup helped. 1. I am thinking to upgrade my classic pro more compact version with below controller. The preinfusion thing is a bit ridiculous, it just turns your pump on, off and on again. however the one SSR is nice and the modification gives upgraded steam with the solder mod. It really pays off to assume nothing, and test everything. Although this is optional, it is difficult to access the power switch to tap power for the PID, and it is almost impossible to reach the thermostat without moving the boiler, and the boiler cant be moved unless the steam wand is removed. 102 is even 3 degrees below my brew temperature. I do not suggest autotuning for this device because there is a huge improvement in temperature stability if you do the tuning by yourself. 6 Reviews (6) $326.00. And a question: Rubber grommet is for the output of cables from the unit right? Does this pid control both the group head water and steam wand? I'd like to increase the brew temp a couple of degrees but have no idea how to do this. Basic tools screwdrivers, pliers, a socket wrench, and a small amount of rubbing alcohol. To find the neutral inside the GC, you have to test using a multimeter or voltage meter. One question, Ever thought about adding a pre infusion feature? The PID is really converting the mains voltage to 12VDC both for its internal operation and to drive the SSR, so the PIDs draw is quite small. Youre giving up one of the two temperature readouts, so youll probably only see the actual temperature, as opposed to the target temperature, and I guess you can switch between the two with a button press. Thanks! Circuit diagram of Gaggia Classic with the KIT-GG connection. From the factory, the GC has two thermostats, one for brew, which the thermocouple + PID + SSR replaces, and one for steam, which stays untouched. Plug in a mains-rated wire connected to a piggyback spade connector, and then plug the original neutral cable into the piggyback. (PID Temperature Controller Meter Indicator, Jaybva Digital Universal Thermostat C and Fahrenhe F Display SSR and Alarm Output 40A Solid State Relay and Thermocouple Probe Heat Sink Included)? Since I cant control that, if you want to use it, you will have to parse the data: each line, after the headings, should start with the PID parameter (P, I, D) followed by the reaction of the controller. You can mod the XMT7100 yourself but it requires soldering on the PCB, basically removing the onboard relay and then jumpering the empty terminals. We have an earth leakage wiring system in our house, but in many countries, these are not standard. I used to get this phenomenon with the original temperature control, but much less so, and I just used to run some water through the machine (using it to warm the shot glass and the portafilter especially if I hadnt had the machine warm up for very long) before pulling a shot. The thermostat is a replacement, the original one burned around three years ago. Your email address will not be published. Auber Forum PID Kits for Coffee Machines PID Kits for Gaggia . If so, any idea how it can be achieved? Hi Miguel. Im on [emailprotected] The Classics over-pressure valve (OPV) is set to 14 bars, which is a pressure better suited to the use of pressurized portafilters. I managed the brew side PID and digging in for the steaming side, using PID alarm function of my XMT 7100 unit. Have you written an article regarding installing a Gaggiuino mod? Log in or sign up to leave a comment. This works well with a PID for light & medium roasts. Have you checked the temperature accuracy of your PID & Thermocouple? I recently acquired a Gaggia Classic with an Auber PID controller installed. It has worked without issue so far, and maybe thats bound to happen to the plastic as current goes through and it gets old, but would love to hear other opinions. Perfect, came back here to ask this question! 3. A couple of zip ties come in handy here. The C100 steps down mains voltage to 12v to power the SSR. People are reporting a difference of up to 24 deg F / 13 deg C between the PID/thermocouple and the water temp. But I wondered if anyone has had the same problem and already found the answer! No extra button is needed to press for frothing. Brass is soft and easy to drill, and all the adapter needs to do is provide a connection between the thermocouple and the boiler, so there would be no hard in doing this. Upgraded steam with the KIT-GG connection you do the tuning by yourself three years ago a pre infusion feature the... 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